Most doors that won’t close properly have one of four problems: loose hinge screws that let the door sag, a strike plate that doesn’t line up with the latch, wood that has swollen from humidity, or something in the way, such as thick paint or new weatherstripping. In many cases, you can fix it in under an hour with a screwdriver and a few longer screws.
Here’s how to figure out which problem you have and fix it step by step.
Quick Answer
Start by tightening every hinge screw. If the door still rubs near the top of the latch side, replace one screw in the top hinge with a longer screw that reaches the wall framing. If the door closes but won’t latch, adjust or enlarge the strike plate opening. If the door sticks only in humid weather, wait for drier conditions or lightly sand the rubbing edge and seal it.
What the Problem Looks Like
Pay attention to how the door misbehaves. The symptom points to the cause:
- Rubs at the top corner on the latch side: the door is sagging, usually from a loose top hinge.
- Rubs at the bottom on the hinge side: the bottom hinge may be loose, or the door is sagging overall.
- Closes, but the latch doesn’t catch: the latch and strike plate are misaligned.
- Springs back open when you push it closed: the door may be “hinge-bound,” meaning the hinges are set too deep or screws are sticking out, or new weatherstripping is too thick.
- Sticks only in summer or rainy seasons: the wood is swelling with humidity.
- Uneven gap around the door: look closely at where the gap is narrow; that’s where it’s rubbing.
For example, if a bathroom door suddenly starts sticking near the top corner, don’t immediately assume the door itself is damaged. Steam and seasonal humidity can cause wood to swell, while loose hinges can also shift the door out of alignment.
Common Causes
- Hinge screws loosened by years of use or stripped screw holes
- Short hinge screws that grip only the thin door jamb, not the framing behind it
- Strike plate shifted or installed slightly off
- Humidity swelling the door or frame
- Layers of paint on the door edge or jamb
- New weatherstripping on exterior doors that’s too thick
- House settling, which can slightly shift door frames over time
What You Need
- Screwdriver or drill/driver
- Screws about 2½ to 3 inches long that match your hinge screws’ head size
- Wooden toothpicks or golf tees and wood glue (for stripped holes)
- Pencil or lipstick (to mark where the latch hits)
- Flat file or chisel
- Sandpaper or a sanding block
- Paint or sealer for any bare wood
Step-by-Step Guide
Step 1: Diagnose Where It’s Rubbing
Close the door slowly and watch the gap. Look for shiny, worn paint on the door edge or jamb; those marks show where contact happens. You can also slide a sheet of paper around the closed door. Where it gets stuck, the door is touching.
Step 2: Tighten All Hinge Screws
Open the door and tighten every screw on both the door side and the jamb side of each hinge. This alone fixes many sagging doors. If a screw spins without tightening, the hole is stripped. Move to Step 3.
Step 3: Repair Stripped Screw Holes
- Remove the stripped screw.
- Dip a few wooden toothpicks or a golf tee in wood glue and push them into the hole.
- Snap or cut them flush with the surface and let the glue dry.
- Drive the screw back in. The new wood gives the threads something to grip.
Step 4: Add a Long Screw to the Top Hinge
If the door sags toward the latch side, replace one of the jamb-side screws in the top hinge, usually the one closest to the doorstop, with a 2½ to 3 inch screw. Drive it carefully; it will pass through the jamb into the framing and pull the hinge, and the whole door, slightly toward the frame. This often closes the gap at the top latch corner. Don’t overtighten, or you can distort the jamb.
Step 5: Adjust the Strike Plate
If the door closes but won’t latch:
- Rub a little pencil graphite or lipstick on the latch bolt.
- Close the door gently so the latch leaves a mark on the strike plate.
- If the mark sits just above or below the opening, carefully file the opening larger in that direction.
- If it’s off by more than about 1/8 inch, remove the strike plate, extend the mortise with a chisel, and reposition the plate. Fill the old screw holes as in Step 3.
Step 6: Handle Swelling or Paint Buildup
If the door still rubs after hinge and strike plate adjustments, lightly sand or plane the high spot. Remove only what’s needed; it’s easy to take off too much, and a door that’s sanded in humid weather may have a gap once conditions dry out. Seal or paint the bare edge afterward so it absorbs less moisture in the future.
Step 7: Check Exterior Door Weatherstripping
If an exterior door started springing back after you added new weatherstripping, the seal may be too thick. The U.S. Department of Energy’s weatherstripping guide notes that weatherstripping should seal well when a door is closed but still allow it to open freely. Try a thinner profile or adjust the doorstop slightly.
Troubleshooting
- Door still sags after long screws: the hinge itself may be bent. Replacement hinges are inexpensive.
- Door is hinge-bound: check for screw heads sticking out of the hinge leaves, or hinges set too deep in their mortises. Seat the screws fully, or shim behind the hinge leaf with thin cardboard.
- Door fits in winter, sticks in summer: it’s humidity. Seal all six sides of the door, including top and bottom edges, if you remove it.
- Door is visibly warped: a badly twisted door usually needs replacement.
Common Mistakes to Avoid
- Planing first. Always try hinge and strike plate fixes before removing wood.
- Using longer screws everywhere. One or two long screws in the top hinge are usually enough.
- Leaving bare wood unsealed. Unfinished edges absorb moisture and can swell again.
- Ignoring the rest of the house. If several doors change at once, look for a larger cause.
When You Should Call a Professional
A single door with loose hinges is a simple DIY job. Call a professional if multiple doors start sticking at the same time, especially alongside new diagonal wall cracks, sloping floors, or gaps between walls and ceilings. That combination can indicate settling or structural movement worth evaluating. Our guide on how to fix cracks in interior walls explains which cracks are warning signs. Exterior doors with rotted frames or thresholds also often need a carpenter.
How to Prevent the Problem in the Future
- Tighten hinge screws once or twice a year.
- Keep indoor humidity reasonable, especially in bathrooms, by running exhaust fans.
- Seal all edges of wood doors when painting or refinishing.
- Lubricate hinges to reduce wear. A noisy hinge is often the first sign; see how to fix a squeaky door.
- Include doors in your monthly home checks so you notice changes early.
Frequently Asked Questions
Why won’t my door close all of a sudden?
Sudden changes are usually caused by loose hinge screws, a humidity spike, or something new in the way, like a rug or weatherstripping. If several doors change at once, consider whether the house may be settling.
How do I fix a door that won’t latch?
Mark where the latch hits the strike plate, then file the opening or reposition the plate so the latch lines up. Tightening the hinges first often brings the latch back into alignment.
Can humidity make a door stick?
Yes. Wood absorbs moisture and swells, which can make doors rub in humid seasons. Sealing the door’s edges and improving ventilation can help.
Should I sand or plane a sticking door?
Only after you’ve tried tightening hinges and adjusting the strike plate. If you do, remove a small amount at a time and seal the bare wood afterward.
How long does it take to fix a door that won’t close?
Tightening hinges or adding a long screw takes 10 to 20 minutes. Adjusting a strike plate or sanding an edge may take an hour or more.
Final Thoughts
A door that won’t close is rarely a mystery once you watch where it rubs. Start with the simplest fixes, like tightening screws and adding a long screw to the top hinge, before removing any wood. It’s one of the most useful skills in 10 home repairs every beginner should learn, and once you’ve done it, you’ll fix the next sticky door in minutes.