unexpected points of view activate progressive thinking ganryu’s narrative began at rei kawakubo’s comme des garçons, where he worked as a womenswear pattern maker. due to his skills and wanting to test them on unfamiliar ground, he was asked by the company to develop his own street-inflected label, ganryu, which later onevolved into menswear.now launching his full-fledged eponymous fumito ganryu label, the designer presents a further instalment of his progressive mind-set, pursuing his evolutional direction in menswear.
ganryu is a futurist in the way he sees things, but thinks futurism is a matter of how things are made and perform, not of shiny appearances and space age jumpsuits. his acute observations and sartorial lucubration stem from a keen study and naturalinstinct on the ever-evolving contemporary lifestyles. ganryu aims at creating functional wear that harmonizes with the urban environment and nature: pieces that follow the wearer throughout the day, merging with different occasions and situations in this hectic age. items that are self-standing objects of design but also pieces that are easy to use and immediate to understand.
he calls it conceptual casual wear, and cuts it for the healthy body which is today’s shared aspiration.his approach is warm, even though the process is futuristically lab-like, he uses his own wishes and needs of human being as a testing ground. ganryu, in other words, is the first fumito ganryu client. ganryu believes a label can ignite a cultural movement, creating a following born on of shared values. the futuristic mind-set is his credo, and independence is his strength. fumito ganryu is a progressive vision, with a real human behind it.
In classic Ganryu fashion, sportswear-inspired silhouettes and shapes are kept functional with a deft use of smart construction and technical materials. With models walking to the soundtrack of water dripping in a damp lab-like environment, and a colour palette that starts out with cold monochromes that evolve into neutrals before bursting into bright primary colours, the overall theme and sensibility of fluidity is clear.
Using materials like waterproof neoprene and comfortable indigos, the technical performance wear pieces look conceptual as whole runway looks, but when separated, act as highly functional everyday garments. The sum of elements is made evident through the mix of materials that highlight the construction, with duality of pieces being worn and carried as accessories slung with rubber straps.
The resulting overall image transmits a sense of clarity, strength and dignity, matched with braveness and humour. As intended by Ganryu, this is clothing that stimulates the mind and imagination, igniting impulse and desire.